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Meanwhile the tangy, meaty kimchi jjigae is so preferred that Nongshim, Korea’s major manufacturer of instant noodles, not too long ago launched a collaboration with Geumdwaeji. They do not take reservations, so be ready to wait an hour or two by the door. The newtro (a portmanteau of “new” and “retro”) trend is accountable for the hipster takeover of the old neighborhood of Euljiro, where the narrow alleys have filled with a distinctive mixture of old and new restaurants and shops. Euljiro Boseok, a Korean bar and 1 of the forerunners of the trend, serves creative recipes employing fresh, familiar...